Clever Geometry

Dearest Friends,

Problem: Fit a square peg in a round hole.  That, in essence, is what you are doing when you make a shift. You need to make a group of rectangles fit a three dimensional curvy body. Making a shift is a great example of very clever geometry!

Here's a diagram to help explain it. First you need to take a rectangle and make it shaped more like a body -- narrower on top than on bottom.  You do this by slicing off two long triangles at the top, flipping upside down them and attaching them to the bottom - creating gores.  Two rectangles become the sleeves that are made wider at the top than at the bottom by the use of two small squares that become underarm gussets. And Abracadabra! You have a garment of squares and triangles that turn into a shift.

Next post I'll show you the economical use of fabric employed when you cut it out.  Waste not want not!

Your humble & obedient servant,

Mrs. S.

Shifting Back to Shift Sleeves

Since I am cutting out two shifts today, a fine one to wear as Mrs Skinner, the other, a more utilitarian one, I figured we should take a look at how the lower sorts wore their shift sleeves during the early 1770's.  Since these folks weren't sitting for portraits with Mr Copley, let's look to the period prints for guidance. The examples I will show are from 1770-74, all from the Lewis Walpole collection.

This print of the girl with the candle shows a very similar shift sleeve treatment as Mrs Skinner's -- a small ruffle with the shift sleeve just past the elbow. And if you will humor me and allow me to go off on a tangent for a moment. Check out the pin keeping her handkerchief closed.  Cool detail huh?

Ok, back to shift sleeves. Take a look at the nosegay seller. I love using her as an example of a classic middlin' type. Check out her shift - again same treatment but displayed below a gown cuff.  So let's look at another, "The Enraged Macaroni" - same type of gown, this time no ruffle.

Let's look at one more -"Piety in Pattens" -- Little ruffle peeking out from a gown cuff

So, for my everyday shift, I will opt for the same sleeve treatment as Mrs. Skinner, though with probably not as fine a linen ruffle. But that's another post for another day.

Back to cutting out linen,

Mrs. S.