The Return of Mrs. Peabody

My Dear Friends and Correspondents,

It is wonderful to return home to Massachusetts after my absence over the sea.  While the voyage is always a trial, the metropolis of London has much to offer to improve one's knowledge and expand the mind.

It is so nice to read the posts of Mrs. S. so illuminating and Miss K. who is full of good questions.  I am happy to report on several items of interest to us all.

First I have found no general difference in the methods used by us here in Concord to those in England of making gowns and other items.  If one were to place a garment made in Boston next to one made in London or Leeds, you would be hard pressed to choose which was which.

In dressmaking the usual conventions were seen; shoulder straps, white linen linings, cuffs and sleeve flounces similar in all respects.  Hems and seams the same, all methods known and used by us here, were also used in the height of fashion there!

One of the highlights of my journey was an examination of this gown.

Leeds Costume Collection

This gown is in reality a deep shade of raspberry and not the scarlet shown in the image.  A rare example of a highly decorated damask gown. In almost all instances, damasks are usually undress gowns and as such not lavished with passementerie.  There is a damask gown at the MFA (and one at the MET) that does have some trim as well, but by and large they are not often found with this extent of trimming.   There is no doubt in my mind that not only was the trim purchased at the same time as the gown but was also dyed to match the fabric, probably by the same silk dyer.  The color of the trim is exactly the same as the gown, not a bit of a shade off color -exact- and the abundance of such is lavish to a degree of lavishness not to be believed. This gown was made to be worn over hoops, thus displaying the gown to full advantage.

So that brings Mrs. P to her own personal goal setting for the upcoming winter, I am determined to divine in detail many of the trims made with silk.  Simple flies are not a challenge, but the other elements that are usually so combined with them really will be more complex to duplicate.   One has to have goals to endure the long, and cold winter ahead.

The first and most important hurdle will be to find the right fabric, since the trim is always secondary to the fabric.  Oh, wait.  I may have some in storage.  Will have to check my trunks for a suitable length as I have laid aside many for future use.

Mrs. Peabody

Connecticut Historical Society

Just spent some time zooming through the Connecticut Historical Society and their new museum database online.  Found lots of shoes and a few things of note for the Concord Chicks, especially this lovely portrait for the young matrons. 

Jane Ellery, Connecticut Historical Society

Check out her lovely cap, simple gown and accessories.  A perfect color for many, this rosy peach would flatter most complexions.   The date on this portrait is 1772,  her gown has a stomacher front with only simple ruching as trim on the robings, double sleeve flounces and double sleeve ruffles.  Her hair is high, but simple in style, the cap coming to a point at center front is perfect for the high hair.  The cap is very do-able, will help someone if they want to try this cap.   A simple not expensive silk taffeta will work well to reproduce this type of dress.   Doesn't she look like Becky F.?

Mrs. Peabody

Mrs. Derby Sets Her Goals

Greetings!

My name is Emily, and I will be dressing the occasional living history character I play for my job as a professional historian in Salem.  Mrs Derby, the former Elizabeth Crowninshield, was the wife of a rising young merchant named Elias Hasket Derby.  Hasket was the son of the wealthiest merchant in 1760s Salem, and in the 1770s was a junior partner in the firm, and gaining his own wealth through trade and privateering. Therefore, Mrs. Derby had easy access to, and could afford a wide range of fabrics on the higher end of the scale.

Mrs. Derby has a formal gown for assemblies and other evening gatherings, and a nice wool damask gown that is very suitable for morning household management and perhaps meeting with those of a lower class, but she needs a silk gown for her afternoon calls, a more informal meal, and serving tea.  I have a great desire for a pink silk english gown, a la Mrs. Hancock:

So, here are my goals: to find the perfect pink silk satin for my dress, although I may end up settling for taffety, and to learn tambour sufficiently to make one of those amazing aprons!